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PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 8:33 pm
by to register?St
Can anyone tell me what to use for fuel and mix for the Pioneers?

PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2006 2:31 am
by ozzie
25 to 1 is a recommended blend
use high quality air cooled two stroke oil.
avoid fuel with methanol added. will eat rubber components in carby.
the factory (lazair) recommended a 100 to 1 nutectic oil. i used this in the early days with no problem but i have heard from bigger rotax owners that when using this type of oil, that when rebuilding their engines they initally find a very clean healthy engine, on strip down then find excessive wear when measuring things up.

PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2006 7:57 am
by russell
In 1980 Dale Kramer recommended using an oil called Granberg. He used a 100 to 1 ratio. I did that for the 8 yrs. and 95 hrs. I flew my Pioneers. Now I run a 50:1 ratio of Huskavarna oil in my Pioneers and all seven of my small engine tools which have manufacturer recommendations anywhere from 16:1 to 50:1. Because of the difference in the manufacture of oils you can wind up with these variations (they want you to buy there oil). The new technology has changed all that.


PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2006 8:08 am
by Guest

PostPosted: Wed May 24, 2006 10:09 pm
by Chappy
Since this is something I've played with for a long time, I'll just throw in my 2 cents. I've run over a 1000 engine hours on Pioneers, but because they are spinning much faster because of the redrives I use (typically ~8000 rpm on climb out), that would probably equate to something like twice that to you direct drive guys. I've run just about all the popular oils over the years, looking for the "perfect oil". I started out using the 100:1 full synthetics (Amsoil & Bel-Ray), but had problems with deposits that would build up and flack off, melt into little balls that would end up shorting out the spark plugs. The rings would get stuck too. After trying a bunch of oils, I ended up using Yamalube at 24:1 mix. The engines ran cooler, cleaner, and stronger. It was expensive, but the best oil I could find in the early eighties. I tried Yamaha R, which was an awesome oil, but it left too many deposits and cost more than the gas (at 24:1)! My only major Pioneer engine failure occurred while using 100:1 full synthetic oil (a crankshaft bearing failure).

I now use Pennzoil for Air Cooled engines (NOT their outboard motor oil) - for the last dozen years or so in my Pioneers (and Rotaxes and a 2 stroke Honda). I've used it everywhere from 16:1 to 32:1 in the Pioneers. Like the racers do, I believe in using the MOST oil I can without causing problem. I worry about friction and increased wear. I know that common wisdom is to use the 100:1 oils in an attempt to get more power. My experience is the exact opposite. More oil=less friction=more power AND reduced wear. As long as the plugs and combustion chamber stay clean, and they do with the Pennzoil, I KNOW the engine will last longer. 32:1 was fine, so was 24:1, 20:1 a little messy, and 16:1 very messy and some idle problems at times. After playing with them over a couple years, I settled on 24:1, although I've run 20:1 a lot too. With the modern auto gas and the Pennzoil AC oil, I have much better engine performance and reliability than back when I started out. And, the Pennzoil oil is cheap and can be ordered by the case from most local auto supply parts stores, and lots of Wall-Marts carry it too (unfortunately in little bitty bottles).

Now that 10% ethanol is being added to ALL the gas around here, I'm concerned that it will reduce engine performance and life. I've always been very careful to stay away from gas with any alcohol in it (for 2 stroke engines).


PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 7:58 am
by Guest
What ratio do you use for the Rotaxs ?

PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 5:21 pm
by ozzie
It now seems that it is going to be inevitable that like it or not we are going to find it harder in the future to find fuel that is not going to have at least 10% methanol added to it. i have heard that some are making or finding carby replacement kits that are made from material that does not dissolve from the additives. has anyone explored this area yet? maybe we will have to make our own components to replace things like the diaphram pumps ect from material like a thicker mylar or similar materials. Ozzie