Page 7 of 28

PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 11:04 am
by yankeflyer
Razor blade thin and putting it on was made relatively easy by a 3M product. A double-sided tape.

I did put down a test piece that I can destroy just to see what it takes to pull the Strip away from the aluminum that it is riveted to.

I would like to come up with the silver tape that I have seen others write about and or the silver metallic paint and then cover the caps. That would also help with the sharp edges.

As is always with these airplane projects I always end up way more involved than I had anticipated. After watching Dave's rebuild of his two-seater, it's pretty sure that most of the adhesive has failed on the bottom side of the D cell. Once I finish all the riveting I`ll pull the wings so that I can cap the underside of the wings.

I am going to guesstimate that the strength of the titanium strips would be roughly that of a aluminum pop can. To be sure I have not overbuilt. :huh:

Ok I just tried to tear the titanium strip off the rivet and it is still there- just very strong conection-aluminum of the same thickness would have torn. I'll try to figure out a way to record a short video demonstration to destruction of the test piece.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 11:18 am
by yankeflyer
I know I said in an earlier post that I thought that rotary skid could take about 100 lbs. before the forks started to bend. For sure they can take 177 lbs. without bending.

My control stick is going to get an upgrade -- something that will let me have easy access to two brake levers. Throttle quadrant overhead.

PostPosted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 9:06 pm
by yankeflyer
Tape at the Tedlar web site sure is expensive-

QTY Type Price Per Piece Total Price
Select.005 X 1 INCH X 108 FT KYNSTICK TAPE. $196.53 $196.53 ... _id=108683


PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 7:53 am
by yankeflyer
Hey Daver

I still have to do the bottoms of my wings- think I`ll wait to see what you come up with,before I do the rest of the cap strips.

I don`t see no shine coming back to this aluminum-maybe painting is the way to go.

PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 10:51 am
by huronflyer

Those wheels look cool?


I just got off the phone with a homebuilder west of here a
couple of hours, in regard to making cap strips.
No word back at the moment about the plastic material; so I
need to get proactive here ( I have been so co-dependent on
other Lazair/UL pilots and there are ZIPPO here).

Question if I tape or go over existing tape, what about using,
PK screws and washers from "Aircraft Spruce" that they sell for
Champs and Bellancas? Putting their "cap strip" screws every
2" per the above planes vs every 4" with metal strips?

I have been told about two possible problems, ballooning and
ripping of Tedlar past ribs. The former is bad enough and the later
a bail out time.

Any thoughts?

I am trying to source some local aluminum ends to process for
strips, unless the plastic material becomes available and worth


PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 10:53 am
by huronflyer

Putting crews every 2" concerns me in that the cap strips over the
foam are not that substantial and that could weaken them...
Is that a correct consideration?


PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 12:22 pm
by yankeflyer
If the weak spot now, is the failing adhesive that secures the Tedlar to the top and the bottom of the ribs, and my new connection is the grip and strength of the metals and the quality of the rivet compression after the pop.

My experience with past projects of this sort, be they airplanes or fabricating the composite type project, mixing different metals, plastics, fiberglass and related cloth........... and so on.

What I've done so far with the cap strips is adequate to replace the failing adhesive -- preventing any ballooning. However, I would consider the addition of a tedlar compatible tape, to cover the cap strip and rivets.

The edge of the titanium is indeed sharp but you cannot tear it like you can aluminum, of the same thickness.


PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 1:08 pm
by yankeflyer
with tedlar

can be seen at- ... dZViewItem

PostPosted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 4:21 pm
by JPXman
everyone has a shop in their town with the capability to shear metal.

everyone can probably get their hands on sheet aluminum either from a shop or mail order (they come in "coils").

a shop with a shear might charge $5 per cut on the high end, but on a volume of identical cuts on the same sheet, i don't see it being that high

minimum you need about 20 capstrips.

so to do the job to factory original spec would cost at most ~$100

that is for flat capstrips. to get the bevel on each edge, the same shop could let you sit in the corner with their brake for an hour, or you can rent one from home depot for eavestrough and again do it yourself.

at 7/8" per capstrip, you need a piece that is 5' long and at most 2 feet wide chopped up 20 times (maybe make it 3 feet wide so the last few cuts still have some meat on the big piece to feed into the shear).

Food for thought - thats what i did for my planes


PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 1:55 pm
by yankeflyer
Hi Tyler

I've made a little more progress but don't have the pictures to upload right now -- but I feel like I should note that factory specs is of course, the way/ standard for repair or rebuild, and I am not recommending or promoting my repairs or the way I did them.

But on the other side of the coin with my experience I feel I have some leeway to experiment.

Lots of projects, so little time

Today here in Winslow Arizona, it's one of those rare perfect zero wind days. Soon I'll be able to take advantage of them.