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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 11:14 am
by JPXman
hey guys

for the newer rebuilders, perhaps someone who has opened, completed surgery, and closed up an old D-cell can post some photos of the process (ahem Shannon... :))

i know when i started rebuilding i was too intimidated to do that, and now wish that I had rebuild my D-cells prior to covering. all those rivets can be scary... but now that i've done a lot of tinkering i would feel comfortable ripping them open and sewing them shut.

maybe start a list of upgrades you can do to the D-cell as well - i know my 2-seater has L-brackets in the sparcaps where the series I,II and III Dcells do not.


PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 4:59 am
by xgary

Are you talking the entire 6 foot tip ?
Dcell only ?
I can put together a complete D cell tip only section but it wold be hard to align it and attach the spar , joiners and leading edge skin. That would be up to you to ensure that is is straight and safe. I would think it would be close to $ 700cdn plus shipping and crating though.

I suppose it could be done.

Personally a series 1 dcell to me is worthless.
I would not use them as you have no idea what is inside plus they are all 016.

I am not saying that they are not safe but who knows.

Hope that helps

I added a pic of taking the tip off to salvage the tip but it will go back in with new 12 foot D-cell section into jig to ensure it aligned.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 6:04 am
by xgary
So Karl , you will still have to open up d cell to put that new one on.
What material are you using for new strut attach fitting ?

PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 6:24 am
by xgary
It makes you wonder why the U channel was not staggered where the 4 foot spar sections were butted together?

PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 7:50 am
by russell

I only need the skin. It's dented and scrahed.

What's the difference between a series I wing and any of the other series wings other than the thickness of the sheet metal skin?


PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 10:03 am
by flyalaz
Hi Shorty,

That's the part alright, and I also want to add the jury strut angle F241. Don't know the alloy type for the strut attachment, 7075-T6 would be my guess or possibly 5052-H34, but F241 can be either 6061-T6 or 6063-T832 according to the jury strut kit instructions. The holes in the skin are big enough for me to get my hands in, so I might not need to open it all up for the repair, but if I know me, I won't be able to resist doing the entire thing over again. I keep thinking that aluminum riblets would be nice. Next chance I get to go to the field, I'll bring along the camera and snap a couple of pics.


PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 1:25 pm
by xgary

Just got buy a half sheet of 2024 016 2' x 8' if you can

rest of lazairs are 020 alum
plus stiffners, gussets etc.

You will need a tapered rod to bend the tip skin as well.


PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 1:37 pm
by xgary
are you talking replacing foam ribs with alum ribs?

If so --why ?

PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 2:11 pm
by flyalaz
Ya, I was mulling the idea over and weighing the pros and cons of it. Several things came to mind.

- No gluing of foam, save some weight there, and no chance the ribs would come loose. (Pro-seal 870-C48 faying surface sealant can be used to dampen vibration)
- Use of solid rivets (most likely dimpled) to attach ribs
- Not too much harder to make than the foam ones (after jigs and forms made that is.)
- Could make use of dimpled lightening holes to make ribs stiffer and lighter yet

Just a pipe dream, but I think it's still something that could be done. Rib forming tools could me CNC machined from UHMW and would last a long time forming .020" or .032" aluminum.


PostPosted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 2:13 pm
by russell
Thanks Shorty.

Yes, the aluminum is available to me, it's the tapered rod I'm having difficulty fabricating.