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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 3:46 am
by Wayne
Tyler the cap straps that you mention they are just a strip of alloy,yes , any alloy will do for the this application ? In some pics I see the cap strip all the way from top to bottom on the rib does this need to be done to all ribs ? or is this a personal choice ? are there any different methods that have been 'busted' or proved?

PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:28 pm
by Wayne
Attached is a pic of the how the F-3 will swing throught the 'ach' when the aileron is activated I had seen recently a post by Yankeflyer 358,( page 24, 1st post)where the rivets on the F3- where worn by rubbing, this is caused by the rivets touching each other on the F36-F3. at least this is what would have happened to my MK111 had I not corrected the rivet spacing to suit. In my case the spacing of the rivets was essentially how close I could get my drill to the ASI. I will add a 2024 T3 backing plate.

Peter Gidday, thanks I am with you on the test motor, I subscribed to egg motor when they first had a motor hanging in there shed. good to see some one having a go.

PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 3:07 pm
by JPXman
hi wayne

i missed this post somehow. capstrips - yes, any light gauge/alloy will do. factory capstrips came with bevelled edges. some people mount them bevel up, some bevel down. either way, they do the same thing - keep the tedlar attached to the rib as an extra measure as well as the foam tape. if a wing panel blows out, with capstrips, chances are the damage will be limited to just the one panel.

i put them on all the top surfaces, but some put them top and bottom of all ribs. they should extend from the edge of each wing rib gusset (front and back).


PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2010 3:53 am
by Wayne
This is the deformed P4 that I removed from the T5, it is less than 2 millimetre thick and had to be persuaded with a mallet to come back out again, it still held in well but I was not happy knowing that the P4 and the F3 were bent.

I'm not suggesting that all p4 and f3 have been forced in the same way that I did however the manual is limited to 'Fit the p4 with the F3 attached' it makes no mention of filing to fit so I can only assume that most builders filed or malleted if the fitment was as tight as mine ?

I'm Cutting new tubes for the T5 as well.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:16 am
by Wayne
Then when all the wing bits are put together you get to put the wings on !

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:20 am
by Wayne
Another angle

PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:22 pm
by Don
Hi Wayne,
Your getting close. Don't forget to install the G-76 on your nose wheel axel. Dale Kramer sugested we install 7inch X .050 doubler between the TS and C5 and be tween AS1 and AS2. That will prevent the C5 from buckling if someone lift the wing tip. Your aluminum doesn't look weathered. It just needs alot of rubbing. I used Mothers Aluminum Polish and cotton diapers.

PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 6:27 am
by Wayne
Thanks Don I will no doudt do those as suggested, my Mk111 is a late model and the original owner was going to put KFM or JPX motors on as I have all the upgrade parts and late model upgrades like jury strut kit, 032 D-cell skin doublers, battery box's and a lot of other parts that are becoming apparent as I get further along in the build.

Is the G -76 a tube ? I have a lot of "G" parts about 20 or so that I have not been able to use, hinges, plates, angled peices, half pipes with tabs, plates 063 th with faded part numbers, and sheets 11in by 5in etc, some parts I seem to have 2 or 4 or 6 of , spares perhaps ?.

As for the dents the one on the edge of R8 is a crease I tapped out that has not affected the shape of the D-cell and will be under the front cover,I do have 4 more of those end rib pieces, the other in the centre of the right wing is not as big as it looks ( my youngest boy, Avery, 20mths took the rivet gun and gave it a whack trying to help out, he now loads the rivet gun for me instead) but I'll probably pop the rivets and push it out as best I can, it is about 2/16 deep, 1in long and 1/2 wide any suggestion ?

PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 4:35 pm
by Wayne
Thanks Shannon,
I get the symetrical look would make a repair less notiacable if done the same on both sides.
What sort of ballistic parachutes are you guys using ? weight range-brands mounting options etc ?


PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:02 am
by Wayne
Its been a while but I have been busy with life and all that stuff, But here is some pics of the wing being covered and some mods on the tip, its a little tricky getting the clear stuff to fit but by the time I got to the second wing I feel confident in doing more. I used a variable speed heat gun on slow and did the edges first at the D cell which reduced the scolloping effect on the trailing edge.The dacron is a snack to shrink but a sticky job.