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PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:08 am
by Wayne
Wing tip G25 mod I put the plate under the ASI and the Dcell skin for a smooth finish which in the end gets covered anyway. The large box section was hand hammered to fill the gap, you can see the smudges left behind by the nylon mallet.

PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:12 am
by Wayne
And the finsihed wing shrunk and sounding like drum, the tell tale sound that lets you know the tension on the skin is just right. Its best to keep the heat away from the aeras that have already been done as the flow of hot air will loosen up the panel prevously shrunk as can be seen here. no big deal to fix but its better to limit the shrinking to only what is needed to stop the scolloping effect on the trailing edge, which I managed to aviod sucsessfully by carefull heating.

PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 9:19 am
by Wayne
more of the tip and wing ready to be shrunk, ready for finish tape and painting. Its a good idea to wipe the inside of the clear surfaces with a soft damp cloth to clean the finger prints and dust off then warm any excess moisture out with the heat gun before you seal up.

PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 1:17 pm
by lazairiii
Great job Wayne! Looks like it's really coming along nicely. You are really getting close to finishing this up. Keep the pics coming too, we all love to see what everyone is up to.

PostPosted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 6:54 pm
by Wayne
Just a pic of the heat gun it was a medium priced unit @ $65.00, it has varible heat from 150c to 650c, I set it at 500c for the clear stuff and 350c for the Dacron.
My test gun was a $20.00 job, In the end any cheap heat gun or source will work and I prefer to go slow and 'chase' the ripples out with control and always let the air flow go away from where you have done, a 'ghosting' effect is visible from the heat so you can see where you up to, I did not stop until the entire panel was finished usually about 6 or so minets each at the most. You could go faster but when your arm starts to get tired be carefull not to touch the tip of the gun on the plastic you wil get away with small touches at that heat or less, but if push the suface hard it will melt and you will have to patch it up.
A really good idea is to hang the power cord in the middle to allow reach and not put excess pressure on the clear stuff whilst shrinking as you can see the cord here doing just that.

PostPosted: Sat Aug 21, 2010 1:48 am
by Wayne
Then when all the heating is done you get to put the wings back on.

Re: MK111 wing construction.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 4:01 am
by Wayne
Just an Update on the series 3 progress. I guess the quota has been reached whatever that means?

Re: MK111 wing construction.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2011 11:12 pm
by ozzie
Hi Wayne just wondering if you are in the air yet?

Re: MK111 wing construction.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 9:00 pm
by Wayne
Gidday Ozzie,
( Not yet offically ) I have taxied a number of times,tail up and played with the throttles till I am comfortable with the ground handling, adjusted the brakes untill they are reasonable, the series 111 has ran 1600 mtrs (twice), and sometimes up to 2 foot off the tarmac ! yeh har. then the motors started 'hunting' up and down the rev range and would not run without the choke, a good oil leak at the crank case join was visible just below the cylinder join on both motors, So off they came, but do you think I can those mag houses off the crank !!!
I have an engineering buddy making me a puller for the centre of the thread on the triangle plate. Hope to be back at them soon, I have 28 hours in a jabaru next is solo, and 3 hours in a 2 seat drifter tail wheel endorsment, I could fly the lazair when the motors go back on if there are no problems with them and its just a matter of tightening the crankcase ?

I have tryed to add a picture several times but the 'Sorry the quota has been reached' keeps coming up ???
The series 111 is registered with RAA and I am almost fully legal to fly.

Re: MK111 wing construction.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 12:27 pm
by lazairiii
Hey Wayne,

Before you pull the mags off and check the points (that's a whole can of worms by itself), I'd suggest you look into the carbs first. It sound like a fuel problem to me anyway. Are the diaphrams hard and stiff, or are the soft and supple? Old hard ones need to be replaced along with a whole carb kit being installed.