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PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:18 am
by Shannon
Pulled up another pic. The prop did not loose both blades. Can you imagine the pod windshield not being there. There is a "blade shaped" witness mark on the windshield right over the front control pushrod tube.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:28 am
by Shannon
Prop strike

PostPosted: Tue Jan 19, 2010 9:37 pm
by Chappy
Hi Shannon,

Going back and looking at the first picture it still looks like both are gone to me in that one. I'm glad you found the second picture. The missing second blade didn't make sense anyway. Now more than ever I think it was probably a Rynite prop failure. Of course, I guess it could have hit something (a small bird?), but the hub break is so funky, I don't think so.

Also, if the manifold broke loose first, it's hard to imagine it took out a front blade without doing the same to a rear one, don't you think?


PostPosted: Wed Jan 20, 2010 5:43 pm
by Shannon
Yes I agree, the first pic did look like a complete failure of both blades. That's why I dug up the additional picture. I also agree this must have been one of the Rynite props. Thinking about it I'm guessing that maybe the manifold broke at the weld when the massive imbalance slammed the engine back and fourth on the mounts.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 4:47 am
by Wayne
Back to Rotax 185s does the mag housing come off with a puller ? or a bearing lifter? is there a thread on the triangle shaped block that sits on top of the mag housing? is there a circlip inside the block that needs to be removed before using a puller on the mag housing? what's the deal with getting this off the shaft ? Basically I don't want to bust anything here. I have read the 185 build technical guides and fun with shims but the mag is only mentioned at the end as "put it back on'


PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 2:22 pm
by lazairiii

There is no circlip. Just remove the nut and washer. There is a tool that screws onto the hub, but most guys use a 3-pc puller to do it. Now, here's the warning. When you get that sucker really tight and you don't think it can take any more, you can tap the top of the puller with a hammer (not hard) but enought to try and put a ping through the tool to help it let go. When it does, it can really let out a POP that can take you off guard if you're not ready. The shaft has a keyway so you will be able to get it back on the same way it came off. Good luck!

PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 2:25 pm
by lazairiii
Another view when removed...

PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:14 am
by Wayne
No luck with the puller, but after a bit of oil an hour later the motor gets spark and the points are doing what their supposed to open and close. So it runs for 5 seconds after some choke then quits. no problem ? the pull start packed it in ! back to the bench take it all apart and see whats going , the pull start works and returns easily enough just not engaging the tang to on the motor.
Its a public holiday here so i'll have to wait till tommorrow to get some gas for a blow tourch and try the puller again. Oh well you win some you loose some.
thanks for the pic big help.

Can I run the 185s without the props attached ( whilst I'm trying to get them to idle and run smoothly) or is that a silly thing to do (no load on the shaft not good) ?

PostPosted: Fri Jan 29, 2010 5:59 am
by Wayne
After much grunting the mag housing refused to let go, So I put the 185 back together, after a half dozen pulls and a little manual choke till the fuel was dripping out the vortex tube and we have life ! 25 years later and all this baby needed was a little oil on the points and a wiggle then a clean of the pull starter, with the original spark plugs ( A7-NKG) ! Bam off they go a little tweek of the low jet and they idle, amazing these motors should be used as an add for Rotax !
Or perhaps for Lazair !