Rotax rebuild

Share your thoughts, photos and general help to all builders

Postby Guest » Fri Oct 22, 2004 12:26 pm

Did you buy the 7.99 one..? AC or DC..? What voltage..? And did you change lead ends to alligator clips..? Thx

Postby rayjb60 » Tue Oct 26, 2004 2:39 pm

The only part of the multimeter you need to use is
the resistance/ Continuity part.

This is typically the Ohms scale.

You could also buy an even cheaper self powered continuity tester and get the same result.

You are just using it to confirm the exact moment the points contact,
so the readings are of no importance.

When the meter indicates the flow of electrons, via ~0 reistance then the points
are touching.
<H5>Nothing is impossible...Even the word tells you Im-Possible!!!</ H5>
User avatar
Posts: 235
Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2004 2:49 pm
Location: Lake Elsinore, CA

Postby Guest » Tue Jan 11, 2005 9:01 am

Question for the 185 gurus. Bought some new points. They have what appears to be a piece of wood as the crank lobe rider. As motor is used would appear this piece of wood will wear down and thus throw off the timing of the engine. Doesn't look like it would take long for this to happen at 5800 rpms...

Postby Guest » Tue Jan 11, 2005 4:58 pm

Hopefully you bought original point and hopefully it's not wood. It's most likely phenolic material and all you need to do is make sure you use a good lube on the part that rides ont he crank like an axel grease (something stiff and heavy) and wear will be to a minimum.

Postby Guest » Tue Jan 11, 2005 7:47 pm

Bought from the recommended inexpensive (2.99) point supplier. Think was mfgsupply or something. Anyway, it may not be wood but is dark red in color.

Postby Guest » Tue Jan 11, 2005 7:49 pm

Bought from the recommended discount point supplier (2.99) mfgsupply or something. Maybe wasn't wood but is dark red in color.

Postby Guest » Tue Jan 11, 2005 8:12 pm

uuups ! Who knows what you have there ? May be wood. Get on the horn with Wildfire and get the right stuff rather than fool with cheap garbage.

P.S. Be sure to ask for the little packets of lube grease to lube the crank wiper.

Postby Guest » Wed Jan 12, 2005 1:37 pm

Thx. On spark. Spark fires when points immediatley break..? If so, it fires at .15 - .17 BTDC. Does it take a while to get to the plug so piston is now at TDC..?

Postby Guest » Thu Jan 13, 2005 1:06 pm

That engine looks like crap. Come on guys, where's the pride. We're flying an incredible airplane and they need to look like it...unbelievable!

Postby Guest » Thu Jan 13, 2005 1:12 pm

Sorry, I'll try again. Does the spark from the points fire exactly when the points split (.16" BTDC, 0.0 point gap) or when the point gap reaches its optimal gap (.15" point gap, and guessing 0.0 TDC) ..? If when first split, does it take the spark a while to get to the plug, hence the .16 BTDC setting..?


Return to Re-Building tips and info

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests