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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 8:45 am
by JPXman
the valve by itself, you can get for only $61Canadian



PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2007 11:21 am
by lazairiii
Be careful when ordering the new valves from Wildfire. I'm 99% sure these valves are going to be a metric thread and will NOT wok in the existing holes on your 185. I have sampled several of these valves like the ones Wildfire is offering and every one comes in metric only. I've researched for new ones, and they all come in metric only too. So, if someone wants to drill and tap their existing hole to fit these new valves, then you might have something. But $61 CND is way off the chart.

I do however like the fact that the head is molded onto the stem and would hopefully help the stem from being ingested into head.

PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 10:39 am
by art
Has anyone had a problem getting the gap adjusted to btwn .010 and .013 on the new CDI coil I don''t seem to have enough adjustment play to get down to even .014 Thanks Art

PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 2:37 pm
by JPXman
which gap are you talking about? the gap between the coil on the stator plate and the magnets on the flywheel?

PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 4:08 pm
by art

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 4:45 pm
by JPXman
JPX engine update:

its been a good spring so far for figuring out the JPX engine. I just solved another gremlin today and i'm super happy. i also discovered another but will hopefully be easily fixed.

i'll post a pic tonight, but when i moved the fuel pump to adapt it to the rotax recommended way of mounting the mikuni fuel pump, it left two holes in the crankcase where the bolts went for the old mounting brackets. three of us thought the holes werent' all the way through to the crankcase. as it turned out, a problem cropped up after i reinstalled the pumps the new way - it wouldn't idle lower than about 2200rpm and if it did drop, it just stalled. much tuning and tweaking was done to no avail.

at last, today i said "i've checked the fuel, i've checked the spark, therefore it must be air". i pulled the air filter off - everything looked fine and no changes there. then i started spinning the prop through while i was thinking - hearing the familiar HISS out of what i thought were the decompression valves...... then i focused on it and thought "sounds like its coming from the front crank seal" so i put my ear right up to the seal and turned the prop through several times, and just like a girlfriend from my teens i felt nice soft air blowing into my ear - FROM THE STUPID HOLES LEFTOVER FROM THE OLD PUMP MOUNT!!!!!!!!!!

i was so angry with myself for not checking them further - sure enough, with fingers on the holes, the hissing went away and compression was higher......... swearing for the next 10 minutes while plugging the holes with 4 bolts and loctite, i started the engines up and they ran perfectly! went up for a great half our flight before work, smooth air with lots of thermals. was climbing at 800ft/min in my 2-seater in nice smooth lift with 2 hawks - what a way to start the day!

moral of the story - suspect everything, focus on nothing when troubleshooting!


PS: the last problem that popped up was that with the throttle at full on the ground (i do a lot of full power testing on the ground), i started searching for vapour bubbles in the gas lines (daffy and i have been chasing this demon for months). the line is perfect from the tank, all the way until the line mounts on the nacelle to begin routing it for the fuel pump (on the JPX). every so often, the engine vibrates in a mode that makes the line shake about 1/4" in one place, and it produces the odd bubble (a bubble about every 10 seconds or so). so i watched the outlet of the fuel pump, and it was nice solid gas (no bubbles) but then i would see a bubble enter the fuel pump as one big bubble, and it would exit the pump as millions of tiny bubbles and then go into the carb.... the engine was able to handle this reduced amount of bubbly gas fine (float bowl carb), but i need to dampen the fuel line so that these point vibration loads on the fuel line disappear. once i do this i think my fuel system will be mint and trouble free. but how do you mount a fuel line without clamping it to the nacelle where vibration is transmitted from the engine?????? (sorry for the long post!)

PostPosted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:23 am
by JPXman
so my nice sandwich mounts for the fuel pumps took an hour of flying and broke in half! thankfully it didn't send my pump into the prop as i had prepared for that when i mounted them.

i swapped out the mounts for bolts and spacers and it actually reduced the bubbles to almost nothing now, maybe a bubble goes to the carb once every 15 seconds now which is a vast improvement over a constant stream of bubbles. i think the remaining problem is just the fuel line itself leading to the pump. i will lock it down, but the engines are running well now.

now to install my radio and GPS and i am ready for some cross country flying in the warm alberta summer.


PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2008 5:42 pm
by yankeflyer
I'm bringing this thread back to the top so I can use it in preparing my 185 for service.

PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2008 8:33 am
by huronflyer

I bought that Trimble GPS last night...

Mary says, "Dave use the toys you have."

Re: Rotax 185 CDI Conversion...easy!

PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:40 am
by joshuag
Im bringing this thread back to add my 2 cents worth. Hopefully im on to something here.
I tried to get one of my 185's going yesterday but, lo and behold no.... spark.
My coil tested bad. So, I started sluething around the internet and I found some interesting bits. It turns out our Bosch ignition systems were used in Puch mopeds.
I believe this is our ignition coil.
And this is our flywheel BUT i cant read my Bosch part # for comparison and some come with different wattage. Could anyone check the numbers for me?
This link has full mag systems and cdi systems. I have yet to measure the taper/shaft size on my 185 but I am assuming the crank is too big for these flywheels. Any one know our taper?
This link shows common moped taper sizes. We want Puch. ... components[/url]
The scooter guys are doing lots of retrofits on these cdi systems. Their answer is to simply machine out a new taper in the flywheel, cut a new keyway and bam, good to go. we Any machinest could do that. If our taper is the same as Puch then a whole WORLD of bolt on possibilities opens up. They have got some pretty trick aftermarket stuff.
The Ducati ignition unit that Wildfire provides was used on the Puch Korado 80-82
The numbers match and I found a pic of one installed. I couldnt find a source but others say they have. This could also be a source for that elusive internal ignition coil as well.

Finaly, the Pièce de résistance. 6 hours later, I found these and Im going to get one.
Sensorless, bolt on CDI for use in our magneto, no modification required. Yay.
They come in clockwise and counterclockwise. So, does that mean looking at the mag end or pto end?
Thats all I got. Pretty cool eh? Thats all I got. Love to hear someone was still interested in the project and get some feeback.
Thank you,