Rotax Rebuild

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Postby ozzie » Thu Feb 09, 2006 3:20 pm

Karl i like the tool bag were does it fit and how much. ozzie
BLUE SKIES AND FULL TANKS
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Postby flyalaz » Thu Feb 09, 2006 4:15 pm

Hi Ozzie,

The tool bag is 8" x 5" x 1.5", and it fits inside the cargo bag. I could always add some straps to attach it somewhere else on the plane. I have changed the flaps a little, making them overlap with a velcro strip to help keep everything inside. I also have made it double thick. I didn't like the single thickness because it made it feel cheap. I ask $ 15.00 U.S.

Cheers,

Karl
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Postby uscgairdale » Thu Feb 09, 2006 8:00 pm

I'm a KFM guy now, but this thread is awesome. I am going to print out the whole thing for my brother just in case he needs it for his series III. Karl, real nice job with the rebuild and the presence of mind to document it as you went along. I love this site.

Since the topic of the goodies that you make was brought up, this may be a good chance to let everyone know how much they cost. Someday after I get mine back in the air, I want to get some new seat covers. (hint hint nudge nudge)

Dave
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Postby uscgairdale » Thu Feb 09, 2006 8:03 pm

I forgot to say that a couple of snaps may be a nice way to attach it to the back of the seat, you know, just like the way the seat cover attaches. If that works, it would be a nice and tidy place to put it.

Dave
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Postby flyalaz » Thu Feb 09, 2006 11:55 pm

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the praise, but a lot goes to all the other helping hands as well. That's the thing that makes this site work so well! If you ask it, they will answer.

The goodies: $15.00 tool bag, $40.00 P-Tip prop covers (two sets), $75.00 cargo bag, $100.00 seat cover. All in U.S. dollars.

I also made some socks that cover the velocity stacks to keep the bugs out, but you'll have to get your own "remove before flight" tags. Those are $15.00 a pair.

Snaps are very easy to install, and due to variation in location of the male snap on the seat pan, I leave that to be done by the installer (you) with the snaps supplied. I make the snap flaps on the seat cover wider than stock to allow for proper positioning.

The material I use is the best that I can find on the market. Designed for tough outdoor use. Sea-do / ski-do, truck type vinyl. Available in all colours. I have been asked, and am now experimenting with "Denier 58" nylon, specifically made for duffel bags and backpacks. This material is available only in black. Any other questions, feel free to send me an E-mail.

Blue skies,

Karl
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Postby flyalaz » Fri Feb 10, 2006 12:44 pm

I just want to add that I have looked at different locations for the bags and I found that there just aren't very many alternatives. If the tool bag was located on the seat pan below the gas tank, it is hard to reach, might get knocked off by debris, and will assuredly get filthy. If it gets wet down there your tools will rust. If mounted above the tank, it could turn into a projectile if trouble finds you. Helmet or not, it won't tickle.
This is just my opinion. I try to keep what I make safe, reliable, and long
lasting. But hey, just because I haven't tried it doesn't mean it won't work.
And if anyone wants something totally custom made, no problem. Send me a pattern or a sketch with dimensions, and I'll make it. Anything is possible.

Blue skies,

Karl
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Postby flyalaz » Wed Feb 22, 2006 12:49 pm

During today's visit to Wildfire, I snapped a picture of a cut away of the mark 3 pump in the showroom. A few differences are visible. An interesting change is on the pto shaft inside the crankcase housing. Notice that there is a gear where the spacer should be! I can only think that at one time there must have been some kind of starter where the carb side removeable plate used to be. There is nothing on that pump that is driven from the gear.
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Postby flyalaz » Wed Feb 22, 2006 1:16 pm

I have one last question on this rebuild:
Now that I have new carb gaskets, and before I put them on, does, or has anybody ever used a compound or silicone to help seal the carb onto the cylinder, or from velocity stack to carb? I have not (so far) and wonder if it's advisable or even a good idea. I know that once oiled, the paper gasket material on both sides of the plastic spacer should seal everything properly, but would like to know if there are other options.

Cheers,

Karl
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Postby lazairiii » Wed Feb 22, 2006 3:00 pm

Karl,

You should NOT need to use any sort of compound/sealant of any type on either of these applications. The gasket itself should do the sealing. You will not need any sort of a gasket between the Velocity stack and the carb either. On my first Lazair, I had one velocity stack that had a small gap between it and the carb and it didn't run any differently than the other engine since that end it just intake. Now you definatly do not want a gap or leak between the carb and the engine block however, that's what the gasket is for there.

George Curtis
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Postby flyalaz » Wed Feb 22, 2006 5:09 pm

I thought not.
These new gaskets are different from the old ones too. The old ones had about 1/16" thick of some other black material on top of the paper on the cylinder side, whereas these new ones only have paper. It made a real good seal, and I didn't think that the paper alone would be as good. This is what prompted me to ask.

Thanks,

Karl
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