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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 5:20 pm
by flyalaz
Hi Shannon,

Interesting. Some things changed and some remain.
Here is a pic of my old carb gaskets compared with the new. The new gasket is on the right. Note the additional black material on the old ones (1yr. old). This was placed on top of the paper!? They are all tan plastic too. Have you seen this? They are "as is" from Wildfire.

I used two sockets and a "C" clamp to press out and install my condensers, and a regular small 3 arm puller to remove the flywheel and hub. The flywheel has three notches that let the arms slide perfectly into it.

PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 9:03 pm
by flyalaz
I suppose it all depends on what you mean by "removeable"! I could probably separate it from the paper that is under it, but it won't be pretty. Maybe this part came with a carb overhaul kit? I honestly don't remember now if it might even have been me that put it on, but it had to come from somewhere! Hee hee, I must be losing it. Radon gas in the basement or something!

Karl

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 12:01 pm
by flyalaz
I think that anything is possible with these motors! When I bought overhaul kits for my old carbs two years ago, they came from Wildfire not a jobber, so ????, and those black gaskets are close to 1/16" thick, and are added on top of the paper gasket.

Maybe what I had was a limited run? The brand new ones, though tan, have only the paper gasket material on them. To be honest, I like the way the thick black stuff made a seal over the port. Wish I could really remember if it was me that put them on.

Karl

PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 3:46 pm
by flyalaz
I tried to remove the black material, but it was really bonded well to the paper gasket, which was easier to get off. I'll get in touch with my contact at Wildfire and see if he has any info on it. Maybe it did come with their overhaul kit.

George said he doesn't mind me posting the sketch I made of his bracket, so here it is. A little bit rough, but it will give someone an easier start to make one. I left out the cable fitting hole because I haven't drilled mine yet, and the radius to follow the motor (R=.425") is close but not exact. Thanks George.

Karl

PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2006 4:17 pm
by flyalaz
While we're on (or near) the carbs, as I was trying to locate that Bulldog adhesion promoter, I came across a Kimpex product that grabbed my attention.
It was a "primer adapter plate". This was a gasket shaped metal plate, about 1\8" thick that had a short tube welded into it, that you added your primer line to. It wasn't sized for the Tillotson carb or I would have grabbed it just to fiddle around with. I know that even if it was the right size, the studs that attach the carbs aren't long enough to add the plate.

So I continued thinking....: drill and tap the plastic spacer at its widest and thread in a tube(questionable), or , install longer studs and make a similar plate from alumunum , fitted with the primer tube (possible), or maybe install it in between the velocity stack and carb (better?).

My buddy picked up a primer pump for his Challenger a while back, and because the Bing carb has a port for a primer line, he now doesn't have to mess around getting his engine started. I was so jealous. So when I saw this do-dad, it piqued my curiosity.

I still fly with the primer bulbs, and though I haven't had any problems, would like to get rid of them. I think this type of an addition would be nice to have. Just a thought!

Opinions?

PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 12:18 am
by flyalaz
Hi Shannon,

Sounds like a good idea. I'll try that first for sure. Have a good brand name or part number for those valves?

I have thought about losing those bulbs for a long time, and really wanted to eliminate ALL the fittings in the tubing, but still wanted a way to easily get the motors running.

I am with you 100% about added complexity and creating a problem, that's why I thought a primer pump mounted on or near the nacelles would minimize that condition. The T fitting that hooks it all together would be the only place that I can think of that would cause a problem- that's one more connection than bulbs or valves have. I'll MacGuiver that later. LOL

Another gas question I have is the filter. Some types of filters are not really made for a gas / oil mix, and the element will clog and restrict fuel flow. I had some that appeared to be the same type as I always bought, but there must have been a change in the filter element because the primer bulbs would start to collapse from the vacuum in the line. Disconcerting to say the least. So, now I am looking for a new brand. Any tips in this direction?

Karl

PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 4:13 pm
by flyalaz
How do you prime the lines? My old filters didn't have check valves in them. I never saw the OEM version, and continued using the same type as was installed when I got it. Do these filters keep the fuel in the lines for say, a week at a time? If so, then maybe once there is fuel in the line, all I need is my squirt bottle to get them running.

I think running seperate lines for a primer system defeats the purpose of putting it in-line. I was mainly interested in having only the one line and using the primer to charge it and get the motor running.

Good links Shannon. There must be something like that available around here. If not, (like the Bulldog stuff), I guess I'll place an order there.

Thanks,

Karl

PostPosted: Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:55 pm
by flyalaz
Sounds like a plan. New check valve filters for me then! I can always play around with things at the end of this years' season. As far as stale gas goes, I never land for the day with more than a pint or two left. It just doesn't have the chance to get old!

I just installed a couple of George's velocity stacks, and along with his bracket design and soon to be ordered cables and accessories, should have a really worry free installation. These stacks of his are really nice, and I recommend them to anybody that needs replacements.

Cheers,
Karl

PostPosted: Thu Mar 02, 2006 6:24 pm
by flyalaz
While I am on the subject of new replacement parts, I might as well add in this forum that George is also making the wing spar box parts

Georges' spar box parts

This was in the pilots lounge

Karl

PostPosted: Sat Mar 04, 2006 8:40 pm
by ozzie
Hi all, about the primer bulbs ect. i adopted a method given to me by Chappy works great!! seal the vent on the tank make sure there are no air leaks, add a 3/8 plastic tube with a small one way valve in the lineas the vent, blow into tank and presurise it. the fuel will race up to the carb on 2 pulls. tank will vent normally when engines running.
As for fuel filters unless you are using a lge capacity flow type they cause more problems than what they solve. i simply don't run any. when the fuel comes out of the bowser it is filtered thru a (real) chamios cloth. then i take 2 litres of fuel and place it into the fuel tank, again filtered with the cloth. to this i add the oil and shake. then add the remainder of the fuel to the tank via the chamois cloth again.(fuel is filtered twice)
i have had several types of filters fail (bikes boats ect) and cause heaps of headaches when they do. filters seem to be an item that ends up being changed when it's blocked. So i adotpted a system that all the old aviators used. the chamois will not only filter dirt and junk but also water. so if you control your fuels quality as you receive it there is no real need for filter. just don't run an oil/fuel mix thru the chamois as it will strip the oil out. it may also (i'll check) strip ethtanol from the fuel as well. (good thing for our carbs and seals.) Ozzie