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Finally got warm enough around here to do a little painting. The Fusion paint goes on well, but is not as smooth or shiny a finish as I would like, so I'll do a little more finish sanding, add another coat, and if that still doesn't do it, I'll try a little polishing compound then wax it.

I used fusion to paint my wheels a couple of years ago. Still in nice condition, no chipping or anything.

Has anyone had any luck with a different spinner backing plate of any kind? My origonal ones cracked the first summer, and I purchased ones from BC. They were much thicker material, but they too cracked after about 10hrs. I've lived without the spinners ever since. It doesn't make much difference performace wise, but it sure looks prettier with them.

Anyone have a better idea for mounting them?

Brian D.

a guy on the strip were i am at the moment has a Europa and i noticed that the backing plate for the spinner has a layer of glass laid over the aluminimun. i expect that this may help to prevent cracks. i'll try to take a photo if he is there this weekend. ozzie

A note about that "Fusion" paint. Don't paint in the sun!

It finally got warm enough outside to do a little spraying. The paint job started nice, went on nice and smooth, but after ten minutes, the side facing the sun crazed and cracked into long patchwork lines that did not go away, while the side in the shade stayed nice and smooth.

What a drag. Now to sand it all off and start again.

Karl

Any pics Ozzie?

just one photo of the spinner from the rear

just a few tips on painting your bird. painting outside in uncontrolled conditions is always a hassle and needs careful planning. From the above discription of cracking it sounds like what is called 'solvent entrapment'. this is were the thinner/retarder and the vehicle base of the paint cannot evaporate fast enough and becomes trapped under the faster drying paint on top of it. it is imperative that each coat of paint be allowed to "tack off' before allowing the next coat to be applied. also different tempetures on the surface like part in sun and part in shade and material under the surface like metal ribs ect will leave a shadow on the final finish due to dissimilar temps of the surface try to warm the part in a room for several hrs before so the whole part is the same temp.
some tips and tricks to help. allow the component to warm to suurounding temp. then place in shade. wait a little to allow the surface to cool a little. if the day is a little chilly mix your paint and place in spray pot then place the pot in some warm water keep stirring.and allow the temp of the paint to rise just above the air temp. this will help the flow of the paint thru the gun and help to flow it on the surface and flatten it out. application is the most important part. apply a very thin first coat and do not be attempted to apply over it until it has tacked right off. the same with two more coats, before applying the final and "wet" coat, go and have some lunch. then apply the final shiny coat. keep it in the shade but keep it well ventilated. if you can return it indoors to a warm environment even better.
i found that when painting outdoors with enamels and two paks the latest to apply the paint is about midday. this will allow the paint to dry enough so it will not bloom when the air chills and the dew arrives just before sunset. hope this helps you. OZZIE

Thanks Ozzie,

Good info. Lately, it's been raining and the humidity has been around 1000%, so I haven't had the chance (or time) to complete the painting. Worse comes to worse, I'll just put the old ones back on until I get that chance.

I still need to find the time to get the plane back together, run new throttle and gas lines and break the motors in again! Really bites to be unable to get in the air.

That spinner backplate looks like it's only fibreglass holding the spinner on. Is that right? The metal looks smaller in diameter and moulded into the spinner plate.

Karl